Archaeology
Nero’s Villa
In the 1st century AD Emperor Nero chose this valley for one of his residences, with terraces and artificial lakes on the Aniene. Today its remains lie surrounded by greenery: a visit that combines history and nature.
What to see, what to do, where to eat
Subiaco guide
Subiaco is a village in the upper Aniene Valley, at the foot of the Simbruini Mountains. Here Saint Benedict lived as a hermit and founded his first monasteries, and here the river runs clear between rocks and woods.
View of Subiaco with the Rocca Abbaziale · Photo Mattis, CC BY-SA 4.0
Staying in the historic centre means stepping out of the door straight into the lanes: a walk up to the Rocca, a coffee in the square, dinner without getting back in the car. And after a day of monasteries, river and mountains, you come home to a village that grows quiet in the evening.
The village
The historic centre
The old heart of Subiaco climbs towards the Rocca in a maze of cobbled lanes, stairways, arches and little squares. It’s a village to explore on foot and without hurry, among stone houses, flowering balconies and sudden glimpses of the valley.
Even its name tells its story: it comes from Sublaqueum, “below the lakes”, the artificial lakes that Emperor Nero created by damming the Aniene beside his villa.
History
The Rocca Abbaziale
It dominates the village from the top of the hill. Built in the 11th century as a fortress of the abbots of Subiaco, over the centuries it became a noble residence and is linked to the memory of great families, including the Borgias.
Climbing up to the Rocca means crossing the whole historic centre and reaching one of the best viewpoints over the valley.
Spirituality
The Monastery of Santa Scolastica
Linked to the work of Saint Benedict and founded in the 6th century, it is considered the oldest Benedictine monastery still in use. The visit takes you through three cloisters from different eras, Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance, that tell centuries of architecture.
Within these walls, in 1465, the first book in Italy was printed: a record that ties Subiaco to the history of printing.
Spirituality
The Sacro Speco
The Monastery of San Benedetto clings to the rock face, above the cave where the young Benedict lived as a hermit for three years. Inside, churches built one above the other and medieval frescoes cover the walls and vaults.
It is one of the most evocative places in the valley: silence, art and a spectacular view over the Aniene.
Nature and sport
The Aniene river
The Aniene flows through Subiaco with clear, fast water. In town it is crossed by the medieval San Francesco Bridge, with its tower; heading up towards the monasteries you find the San Benedetto Pool, a peaceful oasis with a small waterfall.
The river also means sport and adventure: rafting, canoeing and kayaking, canyoning and climbing, with the guides and centres of the valley such as “Vivere l’Aniene”.
Mountains
Monte Livata and the Simbruini Mountains
Behind Subiaco lies the Monti Simbruini Regional Nature Park, with beech woods, plateaus and springs. Tradition says the name comes from the Latin sub imbribus: “under the rains”.
Monte Livata, known as “Rome’s mountain”, is the place to go for hiking and mountain biking, walks in the woods and, in winter, snow sports.
Nearby
More places to discover
On foot
The Way of Saint Benedict
Subiaco is one of the stages of the Way of Saint Benedict, the walking route linking Norcia, Subiaco and Montecassino, the places of the saint’s life. A home in the historic centre is just the place to rest between stages.
Nearby
Cervara di Roma
A short drive away, Cervara di Roma is a small hilltop village known for the works of art, poems, paintings and sculptures scattered along its lanes and stairways.
Flavours of Subiaco
Flavio’s tips
The places the host recommends to his guests.
Always check opening hours and days before you go.
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Local cuisine
Il Cantuccio
Traditional dishes from Lazio in a friendly, welcoming setting.
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Meat
La Panarda
For meat lovers: prime cuts, a few steps from Il Rifugio nel Vicolo.
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By the river
La Parata
Dinner overlooking the Aniene, with fish from their own farm.
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Pizzeria
Il Giardino del Ponte
Pizza in a casual, lively, sports-themed setting.
Where to stay
A refuge in the heart of the village
Il Rifugio nel Vicolo is a renovated apartment in the historic centre: the ideal base for exploring Subiaco on foot and the area around it.